It is also a homecoming of sorts: She began her 34-year career with Chanel working on couture embroideries with François Lesage, the second-generation owner of the embroidery company that bears his family name. Viard, showing the new Métiers d’Art collection at 19M - the 2020 one was held at a chateau in the Loire Valley - makes a statement about cultivating the heritage and power of French craftsmanship, and couture in particular.
On a recent morning, despite a typically gray Paris sky, the 19M ateliers were bathed in light as teams readied lavish embroidery samples, camellias made of feathers, eco-friendly tweeds and panels of pleated chiffon for final approval by Virginie Viard, Chanel’s creative director.įor Ms. “And there is a genuine economic reality behind them.” “An Arts Hotel” “It was commensurate with our ambitions for the métiers d’art and everything those houses bring to creation in Paris,” he said. “At Chanel, we have the luxury of not telling,” he said, allowing nonetheless that the investment was “not small.” Pavlovsky declined to divulge details about 19M’s first events until after the fashion show, or to disclose the cost of the building itself. A series of talks and other events open to the public are scheduled to begin next month. Connecting with younger audiences, through master classes, workshops, exhibitions and collaborations with local schools, is a priority, he added. Yet in addition to offering more space and light, 19M was designed as a creative hub that would “give a certain modernity to métiers of the past that have a legitimate place in the creation of tomorrow,” Mr. The “eco-structures” were placed more closely together, to create shade, in areas expected to have greater sun exposure, he said. Ricciotti said he developed a modular, open-plan layout to leave as much room as possible for shared space, and studied each side of the structure to optimize natural daylight, but also to ensure workers would be protected from sun exposure and the resulting heat. I have the utmost admiration for them, and I wanted to express that through the construction,” he said. “For me, they are the “makers” of fashion. Pavlovsky, saying he, too, saw the businesses as “embodying the glory of French savoir-faire.” (In addition to working for Chanel, the businesses execute commissions for rival couture houses including Dior, Valentino and Balenciaga ready-to-wear houses like Louis Vuitton, Fendi and Lacoste and independent fashion designers like Alexandre Vauthier, Stéphane Ashpool of Pigalle and Christopher Kane.) Pavlovsky said, was integrating them - and their total of about 600 employees - under one roof while also preserving their relative independence.
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